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Chasing Winter Magic in Finnish Lapland
There’s something otherworldly about Finnish Lapland in winter — the quiet, the endless snow, the way daylight melts into shades of blue and pink that linger for hours. It’s a place that feels both remote and deeply peaceful, where time slows down and nature takes center stage. We spent a week traveling through northern Finland, starting in Ivalo, continuing on to the Northern Lights Village in Saariselkä, and ending in Levi, a lively ski town surrounded by Arctic wilderness. Along the way, we rode Icelandic horses through snowy forests, chased the aurora borealis, zipped across frozen lakes on snowmobiles, and warmed up in saunas under star-filled skies.
This was a trip unlike any other, equal parts adventure and stillness, where cozy nights in glass igloos and wild, windblown landscapes reminded us just how magical winter can be.
Things to Know Before You Go
- Best Time to Visit — Late November through March for snow and Northern Lights; December for holiday magic.
- Best Time to See Northern Lights — Mid-August to early April, although we were told the best chances are usually at the beginning or end of the winter season.
- Daylight Hours — The northern Finnish province of Lapland (north of Rovaniemi) is located within the Arctic Circle; they experience polar night which means there’s no direct sunlight for extended periods in the winter from late November to Mid-January. We experienced about 3-4 hours of daylight, while visiting in mid-December.
- Language — The native language is Finnish, but English is widely spoken; Finns appreciate directness and respect for nature.
- Currency — Finland uses the Euro (€); things can be pricey, especially tours. Tipping is not expected, service is included.
- Transportation — If you feel comfortable driving, I highly recommend renting a car with AWD. The roads are very well maintained, and they have mandatory winter tires on all vehicles, so as long as you adhere to speed limits, you should be fine.
- Temperatures — Expect cold, dry air and persistent snow cover that starts in early November and can last until May. In the winter months (December to March) the average temperature ranges from 5°F to 21°F (-15°C to -6°C). Trust me, no matter how prepared you think you are… it’s cold!
What to Pack
- Base layers — Merino wool thermal tops and leggings. Pro Tip: Bring an extra set of comfy clothes to change into after being out in the cold.
- Insulating mid-layers — Fleece or down jacket.
- Outerwear — Waterproof parka and snow pants rated for -20°C/ -4°F or colder. Fleece-lined jeans also became a staple and was especially nice for going to dinner and looking a little more put-together.
- Footwear — Wool socks and insulated boots (I’d recommend 200g – 400g minimum).
- Accessories — Mittens (with gloves inserts), neck gaiter or balaclava mask, and hat that covers your ears.
- Extras — Hand & feet warmers, lip balm, sunglasses (yes, snow glare is real), a deck of cards, a tripod for your camera or phone (helpful with getting those aurora shots) and a portable battery charger (the cold drains your phone or camera battery super-fast).
- Optional — Swimsuit for the sauna! Finland is known for their sauna culture, so you don’t want to miss out.
SHOP His: Jacket, Long Sleeve, Snow Pants, Fleece Lined Jeans, Insulated Boots, Hat, Mittens
SHOP Hers: Jacket, Hoodie, Fleece Lined Jeans, Snow Pants, Insulated Boots, Hat, Mittens, Scarf
Optional Start: A Festive Stop in Helsinki
While most travelers head straight north to the Arctic, we decided to start our Lapland adventure with a short stay in Helsinki. This was partly because of our flight timing to Ivalo, and partly to soak in a little city charm before heading into the snow-covered wilderness.
In December, Helsinki feels wonderfully festive. The Christmas markets light up Senate Square with rows of wooden stalls selling glögi, handmade crafts, and sweet pastries. We spent an afternoon wandering through the twinkling lights, bundled in scarves and mittens, before ducking into Restaurant Armenian House. Little did we know it would be one of the best meals of our trip — warm, hearty, and full of unexpected flavor.
Between meals and market stalls, we explored the city’s waterfront and cobblestone streets, catching glimpses of frozen harbors and pastel-colored buildings dusted with snow. It was a perfect, gentle start to our journey. A mix of cozy winter energy and a taste of Finnish culture before heading north to Lapland.
Our Lapland Itinerary & Highlights
From Ivalo to Saariselkä: Arctic Adventures Along the Way
Our Lapland adventure began in Ivalo, a small town just north of the Arctic Circle that lies along the Ivalojoki River and serves as the perfect jumping-off point for exploring northern Lapland. After arriving late from Helsinki, we spent the evening relaxing in our hotel room private sauna. Yes, you heard that right, our hotel room had its own private sauna, and I honestly can’t think of a better way to ease into our trip.
On our way to Saariselkä, we joined an Arctic Trail Horse Riding Tour, one of the most peaceful and unique experiences of the trip. Bundled in layers and riding Icelandic horses through the snowy forest, we moved almost silently beneath frost-covered branches. The stillness was surreal, no cars, no crowds, just the sound of hooves in the snow and the occasional puff of warm breath from the horses. It was a slower, more intimate way to take in Lapland’s winter beauty before continuing our journey south.
Saariselkä: Chasing the Northern Lights in a Winter Wonderland
Our stay at the Northern Lights Village in Saariselkä felt like stepping straight into a winter fairytale. Each glass-roofed igloo sits tucked among snow-dusted trees, perfectly positioned for spotting the aurora. During the day, we wandered the property’s quiet trails, the only sounds our boots crunching through the snow and the occasional soft rush of wind through the pines. We joined a husky safari one afternoon, an exhilarating ride across frozen landscapes with a team of eager, howling dogs. Later that night we set out snowshoeing under the stars, scanning the horizon for signs of the Northern Lights. We didn’t end up catching the aurora that night, but we still had a great time swapping stories with our guide, sipping warm berry juice, and roasting marshmallows over the open fire.
One of the highlights was our private sauna and hot tub experience, a true Finnish tradition and the perfect way to warm up after a day in the cold. There’s something so peaceful about sitting in steaming water surrounded by snowdrifts, watching the sky shift from soft blue dusk to deep Arctic night.
Some of our favorite moments were the quiet ones. At night, we’d climb into bed, deck of cards in hand, and play while keeping an eye on the sky above. When the aurora finally appeared, dancing faintly across the glass ceiling, it felt like time stood still — just us, the snow, and the soft green glow of Lapland’s Arctic magic.
Levi: Alpine Charm and Cozy Mountain Views
After a few magical days in Saariselkä, we made our way south to Levi, one of Lapland’s most popular ski towns. Known for its alpine-style chalets, cozy cafés, and easy access to Arctic adventures. We stayed at Levin Alppitalot, a charming apartment-style accommodation right by the slopes. Our third-floor apartment felt like a peaceful hideaway, with big windows overlooking the ski hill and plenty of space to spread out after days spent outdoors.
We packed our days with a few unforgettable excursions. Our first adventure was ice karting with Wild Nordic Finland and ended up being Ryan’s favorite. Since we’d been getting into Formula 1 more, this was our chance to test our skills behind the wheel — drifting through snowy corners, racing each other around the icy track, and laughing every time we spun into a snowbank. It was pure fun and such a unique way to embrace Lapland’s playful side. An unforgettable way to kick off our time in Levi.
The second adventure was a half-day snowmobiling tour booked through the Arctic Circle Snowmobile Park Safari Office (Get Your Guide). As luck would have it, we were the only two signed up that day, which made the experience feel even more personal. After a quick lesson, we took off into the Arctic wilderness, just us, our guide, and miles of untouched snow. We raced across frozen lakes and wound through silent forests, our headlights slicing through the deep, blue-tinged twilight that settles over Lapland afternoons. The speed, the solitude, and the endless white trails made it feel like our own private Arctic expedition.
Tastes of Lapland: From Reindeer to Arctic Fine Dining
Before arriving in Levi, we hadn’t come across many places serving traditional Lapland dishes. Most of our meals had been simple hotel dinners or quick bites between excursions. But once we arrived, we were pleasantly surprised to find a handful of cozy restaurants showcasing local flavors and creative twists on Finnish cuisine. From slow-cooked reindeer to Arctic fish and modern takes on comfort food, Levi quickly became one of our favorite food stops of the trip.
For casual lunches, we loved Chef’s Burger, a great spot for hearty post-ski meals, with perfectly crisp fries and generous toppings, and Lost Tacos Levi, a fun little place serving surprisingly good tacos and margaritas right in the heart of the village. Both were relaxed, warm, and perfect for refueling between snow-covered adventures.
If you’re looking for a dining experience that feels as magical as the Arctic night sky itself, Restaurant Utsu is an absolute must. We chose their pre-set dinner menu and loved every course — beautifully plated dishes inspired by Nordic ingredients and seasonal flavors. The highlight, though, was the setting: dining on the second floor beneath a glass ceiling, surrounded by snow-covered pines and starlight. It’s the kind of experience that makes you slow down, savor each bite, and just take in where you are.
For something a little more traditional (and quintessentially Lappish), head to Nili-Poro Restaurant in Levi. It’s cozy, casual, and perfect after a day in the cold. We tried reindeer here — a local staple — and it was hearty, rich, and perfectly prepared. The menu celebrates Lapland’s rustic ingredients, from game meats to foraged berries, all served in a wood-lined cabin atmosphere that feels straight out of a winter postcard.
Final Thoughts on Our Lapland Adventure
Our time in Lapland was unlike anywhere we’ve ever been. Each stop along the way offered something new: exploring Helsinki’s Christmas markets, riding horses through Arctic forests, cozy nights in glass igloos waiting for the Northern Lights, and racing across frozen lakes on snowmobiles. It was a trip that blended adventure with stillness, adrenaline with calm.
What stood out most wasn’t just the landscape (though it looked straight out of a snow globe), but the feeling of being so far north. Where you’re disconnected from everything, yet completely present. Whether it was warming up in a sauna, sharing hot berry juice by a campfire or watching the sky shift from blue dusk to green light, those simple moments are what we’ll remember most.
If you’re dreaming of a winter trip that feels truly different, a place that invites you to disconnect, explore, and breathe a little deeper — Lapland is it. It’s the kind of trip that stays with you long after the snow has melted.
Tips & Takeaways
- Book hotels and activities early especially in peak season.
- Bring a good camera and/or phone tripod for aurora shots.
- Embrace slow travel — Lapland is all about stillness and simplicity.
- Respect the Arctic environment and local culture.
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